Namibia – A Journey Through Light and Landscape, Part 2
Namibia – A Journey Through Light and Landscape, Part 2
Etosha – Dust, Wildlife, and the Light of the North
The next morning begins with departure. After about two and a half hours on partly bumpy but mostly paved roads, we arrive at Okutala Etosha Lodge.
The lodge is located in the middle of a private farm — 17 kilometers from the park gate — and is an ideal transition between lodge comfort and safari wilderness.
You can already see animals on arrival: giraffes, zebras, antelopes. In the afternoon, we head to nearby Anderson Gate, the southern entrance to Etosha National Park. Once we pass through, a new world opens up: endless salt pans, bushland, waterholes. In Okaukuejo, the first rest camp, we pay the park fees for three days and watch springboks, zebras, and oryx gather and bathe in the dust at the large waterhole.
The drive back to the gate takes place in the light of the setting sun — the best light of the day. Back at the lodge, dinner is served on the terrace overlooking the lodge’s own waterhole. Just before we eat, the rhino feeding begins. A resident wildlife vet quietly explains the conservation programs and the constant threat posed by poachers. The evening light bathes the scene in warm gold, then in deep blue. The day ends in calm, with a wonderful dinner on the terrace.
A Morning Encounter
The next day starts with a small miracle: three young giraffes are standing right next to the veranda of our hut, nibbling on acacia branches. Breakfast is once again served on the terrace by the waterhole; one large giraffe comes so close you feel as if you could reach out and touch it.
Afterward, we pack up and drive back toward Anderson Gate. Today, a full park crossing is on the agenda — an entire day in Etosha. Dust swirls along the tracks, the horizon shimmers. Zebras, wildebeest, springboks, elephants — and then suddenly, at the edge of a dry riverbed, three lions resting in the shade of a tree. They hardly move, yet their presence changes everything. The rest of the day passes in a rhythm of short stops, photos, and quiet.
In the late afternoon, we reach King Nehale Gate in the north. Just beyond it lies the modern Etosha King Nehale Lodge . The design is clean, almost minimalist — small chalets with private plunge pools and wide views over the Andoni Plains. Inside, it’s all comfort and design; outside, dust and open land. Dinner is served as a buffet; the highlight is a game stroganoff with a lightly smoked flavor. The sky above the lodge is crystal clear, and the land around lies in complete darkness.
Another Day at Etosha
We spend another full day in Etosha and at Etosha King Nehale. Early in the morning, we drive back into the park, this time with a guide who is determined to make sure we see something special — and she delivers. We watch a large elephant family bathing at a waterhole, cheetahs resting in the shade, antelopes as far as the eye can see. Sometimes the land seems almost empty, then suddenly alive again. The guide knows where to stop, when to wait, and when to move on. The afternoon and evening are devoted to rest back at the lodge — a last sundowner near Etosha, with the sky glowing in soft pastels and the pools reflecting the fading light.
Otjiwarongo – Between Savanna and Stillness
After the intense days in Etosha, the land pulls a veil of dust over itself once more. The first raindrops fall. The road south is paved, and the drive is quiet, almost meditative. After about three hours, the next oasis appears on the horizon: Otjibamba Lodge near Otjiwarongo.
The lodge sits slightly elevated, overlooking a waterhole where various antelope species gather in the afternoon. Goats, oryx, springboks — they come astonishingly close. For photographers, it’s a gift: natural light, no fences in the frame, no staged settings. Occasionally, a half-naked Russian with a beer glass wanders into the background — but that’s what the next frame is for. You simply take another shot. The evening light wraps the animals in soft gold, and every sound seems to be absorbed by the vastness around us.
At the pool, the peaceful lethargy that makes Namibia so special settles in. No one rushes; there’s no real need to. It’s a day without major highlights, but that’s exactly what makes it valuable.
The Waterberg – Between History and Thunderstorms
The next morning, breakfast is around seven. Then a brief moment of alarm: the right rear tire is nearly flat. In Namibia, that’s no drama, just part of the routine. The spare tire is mounted quickly, and we’re back on the road toward the Waterberg.
The Waterberg Plateau Park rises from the savanna like a red fortress. On the plateau, ferns and wild fig trees grow, while down below the heat shimmers. A hike that soon feels more like a climb leads us up narrow paths to viewpoints that offer sweeping vistas over the land — a mix of steppe and bush, crisscrossed with animal tracks. The light in the late morning is stark, and distant thunder signals the coming storm.
After the hike, we stop for a meal at the small restaurant by the park entrance. Outside, thunder rumbles. Moments later, the sky opens: rain — the first of the entire trip. The smell of wet earth and dust turning to mud is almost overwhelming, a rare moment in a country accustomed to dryness.
On the way back, we stop at the German war cemetery, which commemorates the 1904 Battle of Waterberg. Between the red stones and white crosses, there is nothing but silence. History lies openly here, without grand gestures — just wind and grass.
Back at the lodge, we watch the rain from the safety of the terrace, drinking coffee and beer while we see animals gather again at the waterhole. The sky clears, a rainbow stretches across the savanna, followed by an incredible sunset. Namibia says goodbye in a new shade of color.
Return to Windhoek
The next morning marks the start of the final leg. About three hours on the B1 take us back to the capital. After weeks in the wild, Windhoek feels almost foreign — too orderly, too loud, too full of people. Our last accommodation, the Tenbergen Hotelis central, modern, and pleasantly quiet.
In the afternoon, we stroll through the city. At the Craft Market, artisans sell wood carvings, jewelry, and textiles. The mood is mixed: friendly vendors, but also persistent beggars. We take a short walk along Independence Avenue, capture a few shots from the rooftop bar of the Hilton Hotel — then enjoy a sundowner with views over the highlands and the setting sun.
In the evening, we have dinner at the Stellenbosch Wine Bar, a charming restaurant with an open courtyard, good wine, and a relaxed atmosphere. Our last night in Namibia fades out quietly — no big words, just contented silence.
Farewell and Flight Home
The final day begins with packing and one last breakfast. We head out once more through the streets, make a brief stop at the church and the art museum. Dark clouds hang over the city. As we get into the car, the first drops fall; moments later, heavy rain drums on the windshield.
At the airport, the next hurdle: system failure. Check-in and baggage drop are down. Two hours of waiting, restless lines, overtired travelers. Eventually, everything comes back online. As the thunderstorm finally moves on, our flight — Discover Airlines 4Y133, Windhoek – Frankfurt — rolls to the runway, delayed but cleared for takeoff.
The engines roar, the runway lights blur. Namibia disappears into the night, but its colors stay with us.
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